Thursday, April 17, 2014

Paracas: Problems in paradise (April 14)

Needless to say, we were not entirely stoked about our trip to Ica based on what we had heard from people, so we attempted to book a connecting bus directly to Cusco. Unfortunately for us, everything at Cruz del Sur was booked. Luckily for us, Marsky had been guano-ed on during our tour of the Islas Ballestas, so we knew we had a stroke of good fortune come our way. The lady at th bus station not only appreciated the fact that EmBoss attempted to speak Spanish, but also appreciated the fact that she was able to crack jokes with the staff about how difficult some British English was to understand. She went above and beyond the call of duty and called down to Oltursa, another long distance bus company, and was able to find us tickets. 

The dude at the Oltursa ticket counter was nice enough, but really good have done without that last 5 spritzes of cologne. I thought I was going to pass out; it did not help that we were positively starving. Long story short, we were able to book some tickets, albeit, not cheaply. No matter, we were stoked for Cusco.

We went to our favorite corner store and bought some pasta and vegetables for dinner. We invited our new Belgian friend, Wout, to joing us for some wine and pasta. Thanks to Marsky's intense psychological fear of getting sick, we ate the most sterile pasta ever and it was amazing! An Italian girl, named Floriana, arrived to the kitchen so we invited her to join as well. This led to the most fabulous evening ever, drinking wine and beer on the beach in Paracas, discussing gender roles, world politics, and racism. It was awesome to hear their perspectives on issues that are causing so much discord worldwide. I now have people to visit in Freiburg, Germany and in Antwerp, Belgium. 

So far I have found this trip to be (1) so educational and (2) so humbling. I am so lucky to be here with my bestie as we muddle our way through South America.

Besos,
EmBoss

 

Sunday, April 13, 2014

El Primer Bus (April13)


We woke up determined to have a quality breakfast before heading out of Lima. This was rather difficult as Peruvians do not have the same affinity for large, egg-based breakfasts that we have in the US. Nonetheless, we came upon Manolos, which turned out to be a restaurant suggested by our Lonely Planet travel book. We left feeling satisfied by our huevos fritos con jamòn y chorizo.

We attracted a taxi outside our hostel with some difficulty... Why is then when you have no need for a taxi they appear in abundance and when you require one there are no taxis in sight? We were rewarded for our wait with one of the greatest drivers of all time. Not only did he refer to us as "angeles" he spoke to us in slow, clear Spanish. We told him about all the museums we had seen and the food we had eaten, and he gave us numerous suggestions for foods to sample while encouraging us to ask any question we wanted. Again, this taxi driver reinforced our belief that Peruvians are some the kindest and most helpful groups of people on the planet.

The Cruz del Sur bus station was exceptionally clean, and for all the warnings we had been given, not sketchy or concerning at all. Peru has this bus system on lock and we were easily able to print our tickets. The bus was incredibly comfortable, with seats that leaned back almost horizontally. The food, however, was not as pleasing, so the first thing we did when we arrived in Paracas was head to the local corner store.

A giddy young man sold us some mangos and bananas along with our Peruvian saltine crackers; it was not a gourmet dinner, but it was what we both needed after our day. We spent the rest of the evening relaxing outside on our hostel's patio and planning our adventures to the Islas Ballestas and the Paracas nature reserve tomorrow. 

Besitos,

EmBoss

Saturday, April 12, 2014

" I'll get the next rounds museum tickets..." (April 12)



We had a rather late start after last night's festivities, but after some coffee we moved to the 10 person dorm, sadly separating the dream dorm room's occupants. No matter. We had plans to taxi to El Centro with our Canadian friend, Martin, and see some Iglesias. 

We began at the Plaza de las Armad, arriving at the exact moment as the change of the guard at the Palacio del Gobierno. We lamented our own lack of nationalism in the United States as we watched soldiers and the Naval band ceremoniously march about the palace's front courtyard. We took numerous selfies and panoramic photos of the plaza. ¡Què preciosa! There happened to be a wedding ceremony in La Catedral de Lima, so we respectfully stood at the back to observe the ceremony while discreetly taking photographs of the art and stained glass in the cathedral.

The Monasterio de San Francisco was completely awe-inspiring. It was our tour guide's first stay and he nervously asked us if he "was easy to understand". He was absolutely amazing and led us through the monastery pointing out tiles from Sevilla, the carved ceiling made from Panamanian ceder, and the original paintings done in " Lima-style", meaning the painting was entirely done in dark colors with the only light shining on the character of importance on the canvas. The catacombs really took the cake of everything we saw on the tour. Hundreds had been buried underneath the monastery, preserving many of the long bones and skulls. A 50m hole had contained the bones prior to the arrival of anthropologists and archaeologists, who identified and organized the remains. People continued to be buried under the foundations until the late 1800's when local governments became concerned with the hygienic nature of rotting bodies underground. Sadly, photographs were forbidden so EmBoss has plans to buy a book with photographs of the monastery.

We ate lunch at El Cordano, a restaurant founded in 1905 and located next to the Palacio del Gobierno. We got completely lost trying to find it, and kept asking locals for directions. They had all heard of El Cordano (many of Peru's presidents have eaten here) so we were determined to find it. We sampled some ceviche, pollo saltado, and bistec with some chica morado, a local drink made from dark corn, pineapple, and cinnamon. It was delicious, and we made plans to return.

Finally we arrived at at la Iglesia de Santo Domingo, home of Peru's patron saints, Santa Rosa de Lima patron saint of nurses, and San Martin de Porres patron saint of nurses and barbers. We delighted in the fact that Peru's saint were a man of African American descent and a woman. The grounds were stunning, with four remaining gardensand incredible architecture similar to La Alhambra in Spain. The catacombs were not quite as impressive as the Monestario de San Francisco, but we greatly enjoyed them nonetheless. The colors, blues and reds, were gorgeous, and many of the paintings were unrestored originals in incredible detail. Many were done in "Cusco-style", meaning the red colors were incredibly vibrant. 

We headed back to the hostel with plans to spend the evening relaxing and enjoying our time before heading on a bus to Paracas the next day.

Best day EVER!

EmBoss

Masajes, jugo, y ruinas (April 11)

This morning we had plans for massages at an "Andean spa" at 10:30am which was an ideal, relaxing way to start the day. After our shoulders had been dug out (yay for EmBoss/Marsky messed up shoulders!) and our whole bodies rubbed down, we headed back to the hostel to meet up with our dorm mates to plan the day. Martin, the charming Canadian decided to accompany us to lunch and our afternoon activities.

EmBoss was determined to find this sandwich shop known for their chicharrones, which were ideal for fixing ones pisco-induced ills according to Lonely Planet. Not having a hangover did not lessen EmBoss' hankering for some delicious pork and some "papaya, strawberry, guava" juice. Marsky enjoyed a grilled chicken plate with some strong coffee and a not-surprising side of patatas fritas. The three tourists ate lunch at the corner counter of El Enana before heading to Huaca Pucllana in the residential area of the Miraflores district.

We expected Huaca Pucllana to be more of a tomb, but it ended up being the site of a sacred temple. The Lima people were the first to inhabit the area around 400AD, followed by the Ichsma, and finally the Inca, who merely used the "hill"as a lookout point. There were several crypts on the site containing human sacrifice of babies (chosen for their purity) and adults, some of which were decaptiated. There was also a lovely garden on site with numerous native plants and animals, such as alpacas and cuy.

Due to the massive quantities of jugo consumed at lunch we required unos servicios after the tour and decided to utilize the extremely fancy bathrooms in the Huaca Pucllana restaurant. We received copious strange looks from he restaurant patrons as we dusty, sweaty tourists traipsed around the fancy restaurant.

All in all, it was a wonderful day!

¡Tengo el mundo a mis pies!

EmBoss

Thursday, April 10, 2014

Bienvenidos... Por serio (April 10)

 
So last night we basically passed out, but so far Lima has treated us well. I woke up to a jolly [and exceptionally attractive] half-naked Australian asking me how I slept. Awesome. Our hostel, Dragonfly, serves homemade jam and coffee, so we enjoyed a quick breakfast and headed out into the Miraflores District. We found a church nearby, Iglesias Medalla Milagrosa, which also operates a cat adoption service out of its premises. Obviously, EmBoss was obsessed with all the kitties lounging about the church and neighboring Parque Kennedy.

We then decided to walk down to the PacificOcean, receiving a mere three whistles and a couple "hola señoritas". It was foggy yet so beautiful, looking eerily similar to Santa Monica, minus the homeless folk and litter on the street. We enjoyed an early lunch/brunch of atùn, patitas fritas, and aguacate. ¡Què deliciosa!

We realized our hostel was muy cerca del Choco Museo, so we took French-native Vincent's offer of cacao tea (uh-mazing), tried several pisco infusions, and took an extraordinarily in depth guided tour of the manufacturing of chocolate, which we realized was entirely due to the fact that we are two fairly attractive young females. I wish is could bottle up the scents wafting about the Choco Museo!

We returned back to our hostel where we socialized with out dorm-mates (a Canadian guy, an Australian surfer dude, and two Dutch girls) and rest up before heading out to the Huaca Pucllana tomb. We arrived at HP only to realize it closed in an hour so we decided to return back tomorrow.mon our way back to the hostel we stopped by Metro supermercado for some fresh bread, cheese and empanadas. We ate on the rooftop of our hostel and made plans to have some of our own hostel's brew that evening with some of our fellow travelers.

Hasta luego,
EmBoss


Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Layover of a Lifetime: Fort Lauderdale (April 9)


We arrived in Fort Lauderdale at 7:30am with a 10-hour layover between us and Lima. We headed to the beach [with an overpriced cabby might I add] with plans to wander around Las Olas and hopefully find a pulled-pork sandwich and some mojitos. Swimming in the warm Atlantic Ocean was a new experience and we gleefully swam about actively trying to keep our hair relatively dry while tourists and locals with abundant and obvious plastic surgery procedures exercised across the sand. This was all lovely and charming, apart from some vomit spewed unceremoniously on the sidewalk, and we even managed to figure out the local bus system [FL PLEASE supply bus transfers in the future]. BUT, we hit a slight snag when we attempted to seek out our pork and mojitos.

 LESSON #1 of the adventure: do not have expectations! Sadly, Las Olas did not have many restaurants that were either affordable or open. We ended up finding a little breakfast place, where Marsky enjoyed a crepe with strawberries and EmBoss scarfed a spinach/tomato omelet, along with copious quantities of coffee.

We proceeded back to the airport using the Broward County public transit with a bus full of McDonalds employees, and enjoyed our absurdly expensive mojito at the Food Network Kitchen bar. This mojito was now a Marsky/EmBoss necessity, as the FLL TSA was the most inefficient/slow/rude airport security either of us had experienced thus far. 

No matter, we proceeded to our gate to nap and read our travel books. 

¡Lima, espera para nosotras por favor... Estamos viniendo! 

Besitos,
EmBoss and Marsky 

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Before Leaving... (April 8)




Today is the day. We agreed that it still does not feel like we are actually leaving for our Great South American Adventure. Making friends as we practically sailed through TSA [to the TSA agent who spoke both Spanish and Turkish we give you an A+], Marsky and EmBoss could not contain their excitement at the impending prospects of a ten-hour layover in Fort Lauderdale. We thank PB for her kind contribution to the Floridian breakfast/mojito fund! 

We sought out some sustenance in the form of a good ole pepperoni pizza, began our hydration process in preparation for an altitude of 30,000feet, and found the sole outlets at our gate in order to charge our electronic supplies. I think we are ready to go... Suggestions welcome always! 

¡Hasta luego Los Estados Unidos! ¡ y hasta pronto Peru!

Besitos,

EmBoss and Marsky