Monday, April 28, 2014

Chinchorro Mummies/Playa (4/28/2014)

We took a colectivo from the bus terminal to Azapa where the archaeology museum is located. The museum was absolutely incredible, with an incredible, modern design and wonderful explanations for all the exhibits. It was incredibly fitting that there were three anthro majors (Lisa also studied cultural anthropology in university in Germany) touring this museum. 

The mummies were awesome, albeit a little freaky. You could literally see the finger nails and hair in improve if these mummies. The Chinchorro people had elaborate funerary and burial processes that adapted over time. We could literally see the skin on some of these people's faces. "So metal!" We wandered around the little village, discovered that Hotel Azapa was sadly no longer a working hotel, and then headed home via a colectivo. 

Obviously we took a turn in the fruit and vegetable market and stocked up for the day. Then it was straight to the beach we went, where we frolicked in the waves like the happy youth that we are! Chip chip cheeio!

Besitos,

EmBoss

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Bienvenidos a Chile (4/27/2014)


So, crossing una frontera on foot was definitely an experience... Hectic and chaotic are definitely two words I would use to describe the experience. But we arrived in Arica safe and sound via colectivo to Sunny Days Hostel, run by a New Zealander and Chilean couple. After the last couple of weeks of busy traveling we have earned some beach time in Arica.

Looking forward to Chinchorro Beach, markets, mummies, and Chilean wonderfulness!!!

Besos,
EmBoss

El último día... (4/25/2014)

Today was our last day in Cusco and is aptly described as being very bittersweet. To add to our stress levels, we realized our timeline of events was not going to work with the Peruvian bus schedule, and we were going to have to lose a couple of things in order to get enough time in Chile. As we are champions, we finagled with the lady at Cruz del Sur (lo siento, Vanessa... Oltursa no tiene nuestro ruta), and were able to change our tickets to Arequipa. We the. Use a different bus company, Flores, do go from Arequipa to Tacna, where we will cross the Peruvian-Chilean border by colectivo. It was imperative that all this border-crossing be done by the light of day, and obviously we are masters of the Peruvian bus system and were able to do this. 

We shared a taxi back to Centro with a young Mexican fellow and his female German friend. We spoke entirely in Spanish, wandering our way into the Plaza de las Armas, where una sorpresa awaited us. Today all the estudiantes cusqueños were presented to the provincial officials. Again, a delightful display of nationalism that we thoroughly enjoyed. EmBoss of course could not resist asking one of the little Peruvian girls about the presentation. She wanted us to come to her home in Calco to meet her family, but sadly we were forced to decline because of our travel constraints. We headed back to our hostel to deal with the rest of our errands: lavanderia, hostals, checking out etc.

Feeling stressed by all this and our multiple failed attempts to buy plane tickets from Arica our Santiago (shout out to Momsky for all your help!) we realized we needed food pronto. We headed up to this little cafe in San Blas, known for its gringo breakfast all day and it's book exchange. After spiritedly discussing feminist theory as it relates to the Twilight series and the 50 Shades of Grey series (a cute Dutch woman was shocked that a book with such pornographic material would be available in a book exchange. Turnout the cafe and it's book exchange supports local children by providing hem with school supplies and a backpack. We ate our little breakfast taste of home, knowing our funds were going to a good cause, while putting a couple of Washingtonsin the tip jar.

We loaded up on snacks (the lady at Supermercado Orion thought we were insane for buying seis mini-loaves of ciabatta bread) in order to avoid the nasty bus food. This time tomorrow we will be in Chile... So stoked!

¡Hasta luego, Cusco!
EmBoss

Thursday, April 24, 2014

So this is weird... (4/23/2014)

Ollanta is incredible. We just boarded our train to Aguas Calientes [Machu Picchu, Boss and Marsky are coming for you!] and we just finished talking to this old lady who lives here in Ollantaytambo. We had a conversation entirely in Spanish discussing how tourism affected her day-to-day life and what foods she recommended... As our taxi driver in Lima commented, we are gonna "pesan mucha" after all the incredible foods in Peru entice us in all their glory. "Mi nueva abuelita" gave me a goodbye "besito" and wished me health, happiness, and good travels. Why is it in the U.S. we always say "safe travels" and in Spanish we say "good travels"? Are Americans simply a more scared group of people culturally? An interesting linguistic thought to pursue.

It's strange because we are obviously outsiders to Ollanta; two tall blonde girls definitely stick out amongst the locals. And yet, we weirdly fit in. We saw that older American couple at breakfast this morning, and the cafe owner kissed us both goodbye after giving us free cookies, wishing us a "buen viaje" and telling us to speak more in Spanish to one other. We met a lady in the same cafe who works for this non-profit, Awamaki, that helps locals sell their textiles, and she made me want to come back to Ollanta. There are so many service opportunities here, and the people of the town are so welcoming. There is actually a health education program that I am going to seriously look into, because I could see myself living here for a bit. My photos simply do not do it justice! It feels like home in a strange way.

Anyway, hasta luego, Ollanta, y hasta pronto Machu Picchu...

Besos y Abrazos,
EmBoss

P.S. The dude at the ticket check told me my passport photo was beautiful, so thanks Mom and Dad for the genetics... I miss you both a lot and thanks for letting my bestie and I go on this crazy adventure! 


Once again, making friends like it's our job... Ollantaytambo (4/22/2014)

We were able to catch a luxury ride to Ollantaytambo in a sedan for about 20 soles. Upon arrival we had absolutely no idea where our hostal was. However, the good karma from picking up Jonas' laundry that morning was intact (although why he chose a street with a zillion lavanderias, requiring me to go into each one asking if my ticket was for that particular store, I will never know) and we happened to literally be standing in front of our hostal's doors.

We walked around the little town; we were literally able to walk from one end to the other in under thirty minutes. It was gorgeous, and the ambience provided by the little creek was lovely. We found a fair trade store that had been recommended to us by the group of Brits staying at our hostal in Cusco, and the girl managing the the shop that day was the absolute sweetest, offering us advice about Machu Picchu and where to eat in town. 

Classic us, we following none of her advice and chose a hole in the wall place where we noticed several "Policia Nacional" officers were eating named "Bar-Restaurante Sergio". For 6soles we were able to have a corn crema soup and this delicious plate of veggies, rice, meat, and potatoes. Heaven. Perfection. Chelsea vs. Madrid Athletica was playing on the T.V. so we were also able to simulataneously get our fix of watching fútbol with the locals. Me being me, obviously started a convo up in Spanish with the lady sitting next to us. It was an ideal meal to start off our countdown to one of the great wonders of our world!

We then decided to hike to the "free ruin" up on the hillside. The "gratis" factor completely makes sense as it is rather treacherous getting up to the steep hillside ruins. We agreed that we both experienced mild vertigo when climbing down the hillside, because you could see clear over the ledge. However, it was absolutely gorgeous at sunset and completely worth it... We had established a strict rule that neither of us were permitted to get sick or injured prior to Machu Picchu, so no unnecessary risks were to be taken. The view of the town was stunning and we were able to see clear over the valley to see the "not-free" ruin on the opposing hillside.

We rewarded ourselves with a tea, learning that "ginger" was not, in fact, "jengibre" as we originally thought, but "kion" in Peru. [Lesson learned: never let a Frenchman eat each you words in Spanish!] The mint tea was delicious, the plum brownie even more so. We ended up people-watching and observing (and cursing) the insane, loud, honking, photo-taking tourists and their absurd number of tour buses in the Plaza de las Armas. Real dinner was in order, so we decided to try the soups at this little corner restaurant called "La Esquina" ironically enough. The owner insisted we only speak in Spanish to him so we could practice, and was extremely supportive of our Spanish education. The quinua (as Peruvians spell it) soup and the zanahorria/kion soup were superb and satiated our craving for cooked and sterile vegetables. Eventually this sweet older American couple sat at our table. They asked about our trip and our lives and told us about their daughter who was working for a medical fellowship. It was kind of like having a mom and dad at the table, discussing topics ranging from life advice to locations we wanted to travel to taking the ritual ayahuasca plant (we now have a documentary to watch about this particular ritual once we return home]. There is something nice about talking to travelers who have enough life experience to make me actually want to listen to their advice. We ended up sitting with this couple for almost 2 hours as the lady drank two cappuccinos, claiming they were the absolute best she had ever had. All in all, Ollanta, as the locals call it, definitely treated us well, but I am practically antsy with excitement for Machu Picchu!

Buenas noches,
EmBoss

P.S. This hostal, Chaska Wasi, is our first official hostal that requires us to turn the water on/off in our dorm's bathroom in order to shower or use the servicios... Super random and hilarious!

Little known fact... (4/23-4/24/2014)

Marsky and I were immediately struck by Aguas Calientes, and not in a good way. Our first complaint was due to the "touristy-ness" of the pueblo (there were seriously only pizza restaurants), which in itself is not wholly unexpected as Aguas Calientes is also known as the "Pueblo de Machu Picchu". It was the poverty of the local people in a town that literally exists for tourists, specifically tourists that have money. Seeing these swanky hotels right next door to these flimsy shacks was completely shocking. 

While we had afternoon tea, we observed several children playing in the train tracks, which might I add have actual trains that come into town frequently. There were no parks in sight for the children to play in. As we walked down the street, to hopefully find some redeeming quality of the town, we came along a protest. We wanted to take pictures, but police were standing around so we decided it was best not to. The people were carrying signs demanding workers' rights for the people and to abolish the "monopoly" in the area.

Later that night, we were talking with our roommate at the hostal and mentioned the protest to him. Turns out, several wealthy families control all the profits in the area, with workers putting in 12hour days for an earning of about $4 per day. Even the people who owned the businesses were unable to make a profit because of the controlling interests of these families, who owned large mansions across Peru and Europe. 

So, if you ever find yourself in Machu Picchu or Aguas Calientes, remember to tip well, because these people are treated so unfairly. Also, if people have any ideas how to combat this type of monopoly, suggestions are most welcome!

This being said, Machu Picchu is incredible, and the fact that many of the children who grow up 25minutes by bus from the citadel and will possibly never see the walls of this incredible Incan feat of engineering is completely unacceptable. This is their local history and they should be allowed to experience Machu Picchu and have a say in how their history and culture is presented to the world. 

EmBoss

MP (4/24/2014)

So, attempting to describe Machu Picchu is quite a task. Instead of attempting, because let's be honest, I am no poet, I am going to use a couple of words and pictures.

Huge. Magical. Awe-inspiring. Insane. Grandeur. Green. Jaw-dropping. Gorgeous. How? Foggy. Mysterious. Awesome. Hills. Cliffs. Tourists. Dumb-struck.